To explore is an important concept in this movie, and I hope that some people have already explored something new by trying different boards. I find/realize something new every time when I ride a different board, surf with different people, surf at a different time of the day, surf different waves, etc. even at my homebreak where I usually surf; something always gives me a new perspective!
Well, let's talk about surfboards because they are the co-protagonists of the film.
Like surf spots, the history of surfboard is all about exploration. Surfers and shapers have always tried to explore something new: bonzer and twin fin in the 70s, sensational thruster surfboards in the 80s, new materials such as epoxy and carbon fiber in the last decade, etc. Our imagination, craftsmanship and technology have always helped us to experiment, explore and step forward.
However, we cannot forget the fact that we have gone back and forth between "innovation" and "renovation" in this process, especially in the last few years. It seems like, while some keep "improving" surfboards by exploring and employing advanced technologies, others started looking back the history... It is "innovating something through the renovation of the old stuff". This is a major form to explore today: Alaia may be a good example.
I know I know, there are numbers of books, magazine articles (there are even academic studies on surfboards), etc. about this written by people with more critical perspectives. If you are interested in, please read their articles!
Folks, I wanted to share with you a short video clip from Spain which provides a critical perspective on the relationship between innovation and renovation of surfboards. Nowadays, many may feel that Cali and Australia are the main surf capitals where "new" things are born. Remember that there are surfers all over the world even in countries such as Germany and Switzerland where there is not any beach, and "new" things are not necessarily born in these specific locations (needless to say where...) or, at least, we should remember that there are people in other countries who are exploring/trying to explore the tomorrow's surfboards or our surf culture!
An idea of experimenting and exploring (shaping and riding different and unique surfboards) at the individual level may be a modern way to enjoy surfing, it is an IDEA that we have recently explored... So, today, you can ride anything without being discriminated against; unlike a decade ago, someone in the line up is perhaps interested in your 70's retro single fin. Did anyone really enjoy riding a twin-fin fish in the late 80s while everyone else was riding a thruster? Probably not...OK, let's enjoy riding different and unique boards and EX4ing (this can be a word!) NOW before we see a new trend that our surf culture shifts back to be more conservative. What do you guys think???
BTW, Pukas is the biggest surf company in Spain. Please stop by Pukas shops in Donostia/San Sebastian or Zarautz and say hi to their friendly staff if you get the chance to go to Euskadi (Basque Country)!