Wie gehts?
Wakesurf??? Watch the first half of this clip (it's kind of long...)
ceccotorenas wakeboard and wakesurf in sunny switzerland from cheese & chocolate on Vimeo.
なんか動きがアライアっぽい・・・ （笑） これくらい短い木片でサーフィンも実は楽しそう。
しかし、海の無い国スイス人は色々考えてexperimentしてますねーーー。海の近くの俺らよりよっぽどクリエイティブ。。。限られた資源でいかに楽しむか色々工夫してますねー。我々も今の（色々な意味で）恵まれた環境に感謝しましょう。
ちなみにこれはスイスのBremgarten。川サーフィンです。
Suuuuuuper long left :-D
そしてこれは最新のSurfer's Journalで特集されてた中国の川サーフィンの映像です。
これは水汚そう・・・ Diffよりヤバイでしょ・・・ exploreも良いけど健康第一で行きましょう。
2009年10月26日月曜日
2009年10月24日土曜日
2009年10月22日木曜日
Big Wave Surfing part 2 - Extreme Experience -
Aupa!
Wow, scary wave... so much water... water looks cold...
(image via website)
BTW, this is from yesterday!!! Do you guys know where this photo was taken???
Well, the same photo was on today's news paper...
(image by Mariluz)
Yes, it's in Euskadi (Basque Country), Spain. It was the place called "la Playa Gris (The Grey Beach)." Extreme surfers and huge waves like this in Spain??? There are crazy surfers everywhere in the world...
Please let me know if you wanna ride this wave with Ibon (the guy on the wave), I will let him know! Mundaka, La Playa Gris, Zarautz, Biarritz... there is a good surf, good people, unique surf culture and PARTY in this Basque region: French Basque (France) and Basque Country (Spain). It's a nice place to visit!
View Larger Map
Noah found this clip on Youtube! The same day, the same swell at Mundaka! Going fireeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!
2009年10月21日水曜日
WHY?
This song really do exists...by a band from Indiana.
The sea has become profoundly red as wine
The skies they bleed with fleeting passion tonight
Come sweet euphoria
Your light is blinding to thee
You feel as comforting as a mother's warm embrace
But still you're just as lonely as the sea
We gaze out upon the crashing waves
From this hillside graveyard masquerade
Sweet terrible angel
Embrace my soul with light
There's an honesty inside my lungs and its dying to get out
But still I'm helpless as an orphaned child
Can you cure this loneliness in my heart
In my heart
Can you cure this loneliness in my heart
In my heart
Euphoria, euphoria
Euphoria, euphoria
Euphoria, euphoria
Why the song is titled "Cardiff by the sea"???
Anyone?
The sea has become profoundly red as wine
The skies they bleed with fleeting passion tonight
Come sweet euphoria
Your light is blinding to thee
You feel as comforting as a mother's warm embrace
But still you're just as lonely as the sea
We gaze out upon the crashing waves
From this hillside graveyard masquerade
Sweet terrible angel
Embrace my soul with light
There's an honesty inside my lungs and its dying to get out
But still I'm helpless as an orphaned child
Can you cure this loneliness in my heart
In my heart
Can you cure this loneliness in my heart
In my heart
Euphoria, euphoria
Euphoria, euphoria
Euphoria, euphoria
Why the song is titled "Cardiff by the sea"???
Anyone?
2009年10月20日火曜日
Innovation or renovation?
你好吗？
To explore is an important concept in this movie, and I hope that some people have already explored something new by trying different boards. I find/realize something new every time when I ride a different board, surf with different people, surf at a different time of the day, surf different waves, etc. even at my homebreak where I usually surf; something always gives me a new perspective!
Well, let's talk about surfboards because they are the co-protagonists of the film.
Like surf spots, the history of surfboard is all about exploration. Surfers and shapers have always tried to explore something new: bonzer and twin fin in the 70s, sensational thruster surfboards in the 80s, new materials such as epoxy and carbon fiber in the last decade, etc. Our imagination, craftsmanship and technology have always helped us to experiment, explore and step forward.
However, we cannot forget the fact that we have gone back and forth between "innovation" and "renovation" in this process, especially in the last few years. It seems like, while some keep "improving" surfboards by exploring and employing advanced technologies, others started looking back the history... It is "innovating something through the renovation of the old stuff". This is a major form to explore today: Alaia may be a good example.
I know I know, there are numbers of books, magazine articles (there are even academic studies on surfboards), etc. about this written by people with more critical perspectives. If you are interested in, please read their articles!
Folks, I wanted to share with you a short video clip from Spain which provides a critical perspective on the relationship between innovation and renovation of surfboards. Nowadays, many may feel that Cali and Australia are the main surf capitals where "new" things are born. Remember that there are surfers all over the world even in countries such as Germany and Switzerland where there is not any beach, and "new" things are not necessarily born in these specific locations (needless to say where...) or, at least, we should remember that there are people in other countries who are exploring/trying to explore the tomorrow's surfboards or our surf culture!
An idea of experimenting and exploring (shaping and riding different and unique surfboards) at the individual level may be a modern way to enjoy surfing, it is an IDEA that we have recently explored... So, today, you can ride anything without being discriminated against; unlike a decade ago, someone in the line up is perhaps interested in your 70's retro single fin. Did anyone really enjoy riding a twin-fin fish in the late 80s while everyone else was riding a thruster? Probably not...OK, let's enjoy riding different and unique boards and EX4ing (this can be a word!) NOW before we see a new trend that our surf culture shifts back to be more conservative. What do you guys think???
BTW, Pukas is the biggest surf company in Spain. Please stop by Pukas shops in Donostia/San Sebastian or Zarautz and say hi to their friendly staff if you get the chance to go to Euskadi (Basque Country)!
Cheers,
To explore is an important concept in this movie, and I hope that some people have already explored something new by trying different boards. I find/realize something new every time when I ride a different board, surf with different people, surf at a different time of the day, surf different waves, etc. even at my homebreak where I usually surf; something always gives me a new perspective!
Well, let's talk about surfboards because they are the co-protagonists of the film.
Like surf spots, the history of surfboard is all about exploration. Surfers and shapers have always tried to explore something new: bonzer and twin fin in the 70s, sensational thruster surfboards in the 80s, new materials such as epoxy and carbon fiber in the last decade, etc. Our imagination, craftsmanship and technology have always helped us to experiment, explore and step forward.
However, we cannot forget the fact that we have gone back and forth between "innovation" and "renovation" in this process, especially in the last few years. It seems like, while some keep "improving" surfboards by exploring and employing advanced technologies, others started looking back the history... It is "innovating something through the renovation of the old stuff". This is a major form to explore today: Alaia may be a good example.
I know I know, there are numbers of books, magazine articles (there are even academic studies on surfboards), etc. about this written by people with more critical perspectives. If you are interested in, please read their articles!
Folks, I wanted to share with you a short video clip from Spain which provides a critical perspective on the relationship between innovation and renovation of surfboards. Nowadays, many may feel that Cali and Australia are the main surf capitals where "new" things are born. Remember that there are surfers all over the world even in countries such as Germany and Switzerland where there is not any beach, and "new" things are not necessarily born in these specific locations (needless to say where...) or, at least, we should remember that there are people in other countries who are exploring/trying to explore the tomorrow's surfboards or our surf culture!
An idea of experimenting and exploring (shaping and riding different and unique surfboards) at the individual level may be a modern way to enjoy surfing, it is an IDEA that we have recently explored... So, today, you can ride anything without being discriminated against; unlike a decade ago, someone in the line up is perhaps interested in your 70's retro single fin. Did anyone really enjoy riding a twin-fin fish in the late 80s while everyone else was riding a thruster? Probably not...OK, let's enjoy riding different and unique boards and EX4ing (this can be a word!) NOW before we see a new trend that our surf culture shifts back to be more conservative. What do you guys think???
BTW, Pukas is the biggest surf company in Spain. Please stop by Pukas shops in Donostia/San Sebastian or Zarautz and say hi to their friendly staff if you get the chance to go to Euskadi (Basque Country)!
Cheers,
2009年10月19日月曜日
濃霧！！！
Добрый вечер!
木曜のBig waveが嘘のようにサイズダウンし、金曜は波もソフトで少しガッカリでしたが、気温も上がり一日中無風で快晴のSD久々の夏日なサーフィン日和でした。これは土曜にも期待。。。と思いきや・・・朝起きたらこんな感じの5m先が見えない濃霧でした・・・
取りあえず向かったCardiffですが、聞くところによると、無風でサイズも残っており、波自体は良いらしい。ということで、撮影準備をし霧が晴れるのを祈りつつかれんと遊びRieちゃんと井戸端会議しつつ待機。。。
待機。。。
待機。。。
少し晴れてきたっ！
と思いきや、みなさんぞろぞろと上がってきてしましました。。。ということで今週末も撮影できませんでした。。。忙しいところせっかく海まで来て下さった方々申し訳ござりませぬ。来週こそはリベンジ！でも今度は波が大きすぎる予報・・・上手くいかんもんですね～～～。
木曜のBig waveが嘘のようにサイズダウンし、金曜は波もソフトで少しガッカリでしたが、気温も上がり一日中無風で快晴のSD久々の夏日なサーフィン日和でした。これは土曜にも期待。。。と思いきや・・・朝起きたらこんな感じの5m先が見えない濃霧でした・・・
取りあえず向かったCardiffですが、聞くところによると、無風でサイズも残っており、波自体は良いらしい。ということで、撮影準備をし霧が晴れるのを祈りつつかれんと遊びRieちゃんと井戸端会議しつつ待機。。。
待機。。。
待機。。。
少し晴れてきたっ！
と思いきや、みなさんぞろぞろと上がってきてしましました。。。ということで今週末も撮影できませんでした。。。忙しいところせっかく海まで来て下さった方々申し訳ござりませぬ。来週こそはリベンジ！でも今度は波が大きすぎる予報・・・上手くいかんもんですね～～～。
2009年10月18日日曜日
登録:
投稿 (Atom)
投稿
